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Not-the-Enfield-FAQ
No.1 MkIII*
Copyright (C) 1994 by Ben Sansing
compiled by <ben.sansing@chaos.lrk.ar.us> with lotsa help
This FAQ, in its entirety, is available from xxxxxxxxxx
or by calling (direct) Courts of Chaos BBS at (501) 982-0059
[HST 28.8 or V32bis 14.4] and downloading ENFAQ-A2.LZH
========================================================================
Part Four: SHORT BITS (ENFAQ-04.MSG)
Assorted paragraphs and short articles gleaned from here and there, not
sorted into any coherent order.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Contents, Table of, MkI
* SHORT BITS
- Oversized .303 Chambers
- Cosmoline Removal
- Removing Dents in Wood
- Young's Country Stock Finish
- Removing Lee-Enfield Stock
- Muzzle Brake Installation (P.O. Ackley raves and spews)
- "Enfield Collector's Digest", info on quarterly publication
- Undersized surplus bullets vs. American components
- Bores With Odd Grooves (How to slug/mike 5-groove Enfield bores)
- "The Lee Enfield Number 1 Rifles", book review
- "The Lee-Enfield Story", book review
- Paper Patching .303 (reloading w/undersized bullets)
- Rimless .303?
- .303 Mark IV Tracer (ammo I.D.)
- "British .22RF Training Rifles", book review (incl. Enfield .22s)
- Lee-Enfield Stripper Clips (how to load/use them)
- Surplus "Enfield" Warning (throat erosion & blowups)
- .303 Buff (about hot loads and black powder loads)
- Enfield Carbine Bayonet (source for)
- MkIII Enfield Scope Mount (source for)
- Bolt-On Scope Mount (B-Square)
- Ten Rounds in Ten Seconds (WW2 anecdote)
- The .303 British (as a big-game cartridge)
- Enfield Bolt Creep (a harmless, but startling phenomenon)
- No.4 Rifle Loop (ahead of magazine)
- Double F Marked SMLE
- Austrian Enfield
- Surplus Surprises:
* Cyprus Police No.5
* Ishapore Arsenal No.1 MkIII in 7.62 NATO <shudder>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Codes Used
AR = 'American Rifleman' magazine (NRA Publication)
BIB: AR's "Books in Brief" short reviews
DB: AR's "Dope Bag" section
IME: AR's "In My Experience" column (DB section)
Q&A: AR's "Questions and Answers" column (DB section)
RW: AR's "Readers Write" section
WCIG: AR's "Where Can I Get...?" column (DB section)
----------
GA = 'Guns & Ammo' magazine
GD = 'GUN DIGEST' (Annual Journal, from DBI Books)
GI = 'GUNS ILLUSTRATED' (Annual Journal, from DBI Books)
GS = 'GunSport & Gun Collector' magazine (long defunct)
GU = 'Guns' magazine
GW = 'Gun World' magazine
SB = 'SHOOTER'S BIBLE' (Annual Journal, from Stoeger)
SN = 'Shotgun News' publication
ST = 'Shooting Times' magazine
Runic substitutions (closest 7-bit ASCII approximations I can conjure)
^ = British "broad arrow" proofmark
========================================================================
SHORT BITS begin...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
OVERSIZED .303 CHAMBERS
(from AR, IME, Oct93, pp64-65)
Editor:
C.E. Harris was right about oversized chambers in .303 British being the
cause of short case life (March 1993, p. 16). However, his explanation
of "work-hardening" is what led member Philip Valentini (June 1993, p.
86) to misunderstand the actual process and refute it.
Since the headspace on a rimmed cartridge is controlled by the rim and
not the base-shoulder dimensions, it was common practice on early
rimmed, bottlenecked rounds to make chambers with plenty of "windage"
for functioning with dented, bent, corroded, or muddy rounds.
Examination will show major differences in shoulder location/angle
between Winchester, Remington, and Hansen cases, just as there are
differences between various Lee-Metford, Lee-Enfield, Ross, and Pattern
14 chambers.
Tight chambers support the brass better and make the cases last longer
for reloaders, but countries adopting Berdan priming didn't want to
reload and worried less about potential case life than easy feeding and
extraction.
When a case is fired in an enlarged or "trench" chamber, it is like
firing a .300 H&H in a .300 Wby. Mag. chamber, then full-length sizing
it back to .300 H&H dimensions. The initial fireforming won't separate
the head, and you may get three to five fire/resize cycles, but repeated
stretch will cause failure.
The key to case longevity for the .303 British is not to oversize it,
just as Harris stated. If your cases fail by body splits because of an
oversized chamber, use a tape wrap in front of the rims to center sound
cases in the chamber and make expansion concentric instead of bulged all
on one side, then neck size for the longest case life. It's the
*repeated* working of the shoulder that thins and work-hardens the head
area.
Oversized chambers plague military rifles in general. I've even seen
bulges on .30-06 cases fired in Mausers chambered for that round. For
.303s, a local shooter advocates using .30-40 Krag brass [Note: NEW,
unfired brass, *not* loaded .30-40 ammo, or pre-fired cases!] to make
.303 cases for No.4 and No.5 rifles, because he says the bigger head
fits the large chamber better.
I hope this helps - member Valentini wasn't wrong - he just didn't have
what Harris meant by "cold-working" explained to him well enough.
Repeated blow-forward is the culprit, because working the shoulder,
paradoxically, weakens and embrittles the head area.
James T. Farmer, Jr.
Dayton, Ohio
========================================================================
COSMOLINE REMOVAL
(from AR, Q&A, Oct93, p62)
Q: I plan on purchasing a couple of surplus Mauser bolt-action rifles
soon. Those that my friends have purchased have been coated with a
heavy Cosmoline-type grease. Is there any way to remove that grease
and clean the rifle without using dangerous chemicals or flammable
solvents?
A: After disassembling the rifle, wipe off as much of the grease as
possible with disposable rags, newspapers, or paper towels. Next mix
laundry detergent and boiling water in a bucket and scrub the parts
in this solution with an old toothbrush.
Following this, rinse the individual parts with clean boiling water.
This will remove any remaining grease as well as any residual traces
of detergent. After drying the parts, apply a good quality gun oil
and reassemble the rifle.
[BEN: I've tried this method, and it works great - on metal. I'm not
sure about using it for wood, but it did a great job in cutting through
a *thick* layer of ancient, half-hardened Cosmoline on the metal parts
of a couple of Lithgow No1 MkIII*s I acquired a while back. For
"detergent", I used dish washing detergent (the kind in the squeeze
bottle, Lemon Pledge maybe). It "cuts grease", you bet!]
========================================================================
REMOVING DENTS IN WOOD
(from GA, GunSmith column (Roger Renner), Jan87, p72)
Q: I have heard that there is a way of removing dents from wood. Can you
describe the process? I have a rifle that has several deep dents in
the butt area that I would like to remove, if possible. Thanks for
the help.
Jack Cruz
Tucson, AZ
A: The process you are referring to is called "steaming" and is a simple
on in which steam is injected into the wood, thereby swelling the
wood fibers and lifting the dent. This process is easily performed
with a steam iron and cloth. Simply wet the wood in the area of the
dent, then apply a wet cloth over the dent. Application of heat from
the iron will drive the water vapor into the wood and the dent will
pop out as if by magic. If the wood fibers have been cut or badly
mashed, the process may have to be repeated until the fibers are
raised. Be careful not to scorch the wood. Practicing on a piece of
scrap wood before attempting this on the gun stock would be a good
idea. After the dent has been lifted, you simply sand the surface
lightly and refinish. Oil-finished wood responds well to this
treatment, and refinishing can usually be confined to the repaired
area. Other finishes, such as today's synthetics, may require
complete refinishing of the stock for satisfactory results. Good
luck.
========================================================================
YOUNG'S COUNTRY STOCK FINISH
(from GA, Gun Room column (Garry James), Jan87, p28)
Q: I read an article in the April, 1985 G&A about stock finishing. You
mentioned a product called Young's Country Wood Lube 103. I would
like to know how it worked and the address of the company. Thanks for
the help.
Bernard A. Slay, Bulgar, PA
A: Yes, Young's Country stock finish works quite well, especially when
you are trying to restore some of the highlights on antique or
vintage arms without going through a value-destroying complete
refinishing job. You can get 103 Wood Lube from Young's Country, Box
3615, Simi Valley, CA 93063. The firm also offers other products,
including bullet lube and leather treatment. Write them for further
info.
========================================================================
REMOVING LEE-ENFIELD STOCK
(from AR, Q&A, Feb73 pp72-73)
Q: I have obtained a spare buttstock to replace the damaged one on my
.303 No1 MkIII Lee-Enfield rifle. But even with a large screwdriver I
can't turn out the through stock bolt. It moves a trifle so I know it
is not frozen, but I dare not force it any farther lest I damage
something. What do I do now?
A: Because of experience of buttstocks loosening in early trials, No1
Lee-Enfield rifles for many years were provided with a positive lock
for the stock bolt.
This was accomplished by squaring the end of the stock bolt and
making it long enough to protrude through the butt socket in the
receiver, where it was held against turning by a keeper plate fitting
in the rear of the fore-end. In assembly the buttstock was installed
first, tightening the stock bolt to a final position with its end
square with the receiver. Then the fore-end was installed, a square
notch in the keeper plate fitting over the end of the stock bolt and
securing it positively against turning.
So to turn the stock bolt to remove the buttstock of these No1
rifles, you must first remove the fore-end. -- F.deH.
========================================================================
MUZZLE BRAKE INSTALLATION
(from ST, Gunsmith (P.O. Ackley), Mar72, p79)
Q: Where can I obtain a Herters muzzle brake and what size should I
order for my .303 jungle carbine? What is the best way to install it?
A: A number of different muzzle brakes can be obtained from Herters,
Waseca, Minn.
Some people leave the flash hider on because of the outlandish
appearance it gives. It should be removed and so should the bayonet
stud. I can't imagine anyone needing a bayonet on his rifle for
hunting.
Installation should be done by following the instructions furnished
with the brake, and you may use either a band-type or screw-on ramp
front sight.
Some muzzle brakes make the rifle unpleasant to shoot by sharpening
the report. It is best to try one before buying.
You would actually be better off to obtain a M98 Mauser for a few
dollars more, instead of spending money on the Lee-Enfield which does
not make as nice a sporter.
[BEN: Yes, I realize Herter's is long out of business - but thought the
readership might enjoy the grand old man's raving and spewing,
regarding the Lee-Enfield, its sinister bayonet stud, etc. The last
paragraph's insult is a classic. Yeah, P.O.? Well, you're ugly and your
mother dresses you funny. Nyah nyah nyah.]
========================================================================
"Enfield Collector's Digest"
(from AR, RW, Nov93 p31)
Editor:
I was pleased to find C.E. Harris' article "Don't Overlook the Lee-
Enfield" in your July issue. As a collector and longtime Lee-Enfield
shooter, I never seem to be able to find enough written about them.
Once[sic] source I've found that's been extremely informative and
interesting is the "Enfield Collector's Digest" published by Greg Young
at Box 34337, Juneau, AK 99803. For $10 a year, you get quarterly issues
that feature articles on collecting and shooting, as well as an "Ask the
Experts" column featuring Alan Petrillo and a free "for sale/want ad"
service for subscribers.
Jeff Davis
Alaska
========================================================================
UNDERSIZED SURPLUS BULLETS
(from AR, RW, Nov93 p31)
Editor:
July's article on the Lee-Enfield was like water to the desert. I, too,
am an Enfield lover (I have six), and I feel that the .303 cartridge is
often ignored as a sporting round. I was pleased to learn of Lee's new
160-gr. bullet mold, and I intend to pick one up soon. I am, however,
disturbed that C.E. Harris made one glowing mistake. He did not include
one single round of U.S. commercial ammo in his testing.
He also left out such firms as Sierra, Speer, and Hornady who make
.311"/.312" bullets for reloading. I, too, have experienced 5" to 7"
groups with Greek Ball HXP-69 and HXP-75, but don't blame "rear locking
lugs" or "variations in bolt thrust". Instead, blame undersize .310"
diameter bullets. The same gun (No.4 MkII) achieves 2 to 2.5" groups
with Winchester of Federal ammo, so I pulled about 10 bullets from the
Greek stuff, and they miked just .310".
Bill Brownfield
Texas
[Ben: My Long Branch No.4 MkI* groups about 2" at 100 yards with
handloads using Hornady's .310" 123-gr. spitzer (intended for the SKS),
so I don't think Mr. Brownfield's conclusion is definitive. I think one
big problem that everybody overlooks is that old military surplus ammo
is often just that - OLD! The powder doesn't always ignite
consistently, and the bullets are made to typical "milspec" tolerances.
It works, and it's good enough for volley fire into ranked enemy
troops, but it's *not* match ammo by any stretch of the imagination.
Your mileage may vary.]
========================================================================
Bores With Odd Grooves
(from AR, Q&A, Aug80, p64)
Q: What is the proper method for measuring the bore and groove diameters
of barrels having odd numbers of lands and grooves? With even numbers
of lands and grooves, it's easy to simply slug the barrel and mike
it, but with Smith & Wesson revolvers or British Enfields with five-
groove rifling, this doesn't work.
A: First you must determine the bore diameter using ball gauges of the
largest size which will enter the bore, adjusting the expansion
carefully, then miking it. An alternative method is to take a soft
lead slug or bullet only somewhat over bore size, press it into the
muzzle, then turn it with the fingers to cut off the groove
extrusions. Measure the short cylindrical section turned off to bore
diameter. Next, take a soft lead slug or bullet, and upset it to
somewhat over groove diameter. With the bore lightly lubricated,
drive it through the barrel with a solid brass rod and mallet.
Measure its diameter over a land-to-groove cross section, and
subtract the bore diameter measurement to get the depth of rifling
remaining. Double this figure and add it to the bore diameter to get
the groove diameter of the barrel. -- R.F.D.
========================================================================
"The Lee Enfield Number 1 Rifles"
(from AR, BIB, Mar93, p74)
Author: Alan M. Petrillo
Available from: Excalibur Publications
PO Box 36
Latham, NY 12110
Softbound -- 64pp. $10.95 + $2 shipping.
This second book in a series on British firearms ends where THE LEE
ENFIELD NUMBER 4 RIFLES (August 1992, p61) began. The Short, Magazine
Lee-Enfield or Rifle No.1 as it was redesignated in 1926, served the
British soldier well from 1902 until World War II. Thirteen different
No. 1 rifles, from the MkI through MkIV, are listed chronologically,
with the variations between the models clearly described.
While little attention is given to makers and markings, the new Enfield
owner or beginning collector will find the identification and background
information quite useful.
========================================================================
"The Lee-Enfield Story"
(from AR, BIB, Apr93, p57)
Author: Iam Skennerton
Available from: I.D.S.A. Books
PO Box 1457
Piqua, Ohio 45356
Hardbound -- 504pp. $59.95 + $2.75 shipping.
This updated and expanded edition of THE BRITISH SERVICE LEE (September
1983, p67) is 25% larger, with new information, photographs, and a
usable index. Well researched, described, and illustrated is the entire
family of Lee-Enfield rifles from the Magazine, Lee-Metford MkI through
the L42A1 7.62mm sniper rifle. The new chapter on manufacture, armorer,
and issue markings is particularly helpful. Skennerton, the author of
numerous books on British and Commonwealth small arms, tells the "story"
well.
========================================================================
PAPER PATCHING .303
(from AR, IME, Dec93, p54)
Editor:
C.E. Harris' article on the Lee-Enfields now available on the market
(July, p46) mentions one of the frustrating problems that can arise with
these rifles, oversized bores. While custom molds will allow the shooter
to make properly sized cast bullets, these are seldom adequate for
hunting purposes. There is a way to adapt jacketed hunting bullets to
these large bores.
A few years ago I obtained a No.4 MkI rifle in excellent condition.
Unfortunately, it had a two-groove barrel that measured .318" across the
grooves. Best groups with .312" bullets were 3-4". By paper patching the
.308" 180-gr. Sierra boattail bullet to .318" and lubing with molybdeum
disulfide spray, I achieved groups of 1.5" when propelled by 46.0 grs.
of IMR 4350. Pressures are mild, and cases have been reloaded more than
10 times (neck-sized only). Paper patching is made easier if the bullet
is first rolled between a steel plate and a mill bastard file to roughen
the surface.
Shooters with Enfields with oversized bores should try paper-patching to
achieve proper bullet diameter. With the right bullets, these rifles are
capable of surprisingly fine accuracy.
P. Todd Bulkley
Ashland, Oregon
[Ben: Sounds great, but I wish he'd included more details. What
thickness and kind of paper? How much of the bullet's bearing surface
do you cover? How do you keep the paper in place? Glue? And how do you
prevent the case mouth from ripping the paper to shreds when seating
the bullet? Anybody know?]
========================================================================
RIMLESS .303?
(from AR, Q&A, Dec93, p51)
Q: I have a rimless cartridge in my collection with a British military
headstamp, "R^L 18". The case body is wider and the neck longer than
the rimmed .303 British, but overall length and rim diameter are the
same. Did the British make a rimless .303?
A: The cartridge you describe is known as a .303 Lewis or .303 Lewis
Rimless. According to Fred A. Datig's CARTRIDGES FOR COLLECTORS,
VOLUME I, it was developed experimentally by the British around the
end of World War I to help improve the performance of the American-
designed Lewis machine gun.
The Berdan-primed case body was enlarged to .503" and the neck
lengthened. To make chamber conversions easier, the rim diameter and
overall length were kept the same, but varied considerably in the
other dimensions (see accompanying table). The propellant was Cordite
and the bullet cupro-nickel covered. The Royal Laboratory, Woolwich,
indicated by the "R^L", was the center of British cartridge
development during this period. -- M.A.K.
NOMINAL CARTRIDGE .303 Lewis .303 Mark
DIMENSIONS Rimless VII Ball
----------------------------------------------------------
Overall Length 3.04" 3.04"
Case Length 2.42" 2.21"
Neck Diameter .343" .333"
Head Diameter .503" .458"
Rim Diameter .530" .530"
Bullet Diameter .300" .311"
Bullet Weight 173grs 174grs
========================================================================
.303 Mark IV Tracer
(from AR, Q&A, Feb73, p69)
Q: A cartridge obtained for my collection has a rimmed case and is
loaded with a pointed full-jacket bullet. The headstamp reads 1942 DC
G IV Z. Can you tell me what it is?
A: This is one type of the .303 British military cartridge.
Your example was manufactured in Canada in 1942. The G in the
headstamp indicates a tracer bullet, and the headstamp IV and white
bullet tip identify it as the air-to-air day tracer Mark IV. Z
indicates loading with nitrocellulose propellant instead of the
British cordite.
That particular cartridge is now a somewhat unusual one.
A later improvement was the Mark VI, also having a white bullet tip
but with the IV in the headstamp replaced by VI. -- C.R.S.
========================================================================
"British .22RF Training Rifles"
(from AR, BIB, May93, p59)
Authors: Dennis Lewis and Robert Washburn
Available from: Excalibur Publications
PO Box 36
Latham, NY 12110
Softbound -- 64pp. $10.95 + $2 shipping.
Beginning with the .297/.230 cal. Morris Aiming Tube for Martini-Henry
rifles in 1883, British and Commonwealth countries have used a host of
smallbore training rifles. The third in the "British Firearms" series,
this book concentrates on the .22 rimfire Lee-Metford and Lee-Enfield
trainers. As most were converted service rifles, particular attention is
paid to parts differences and markings. Also included are photographs
and descriptions of sights and magazine conversions peculiar to the
.22s.
========================================================================
LEE-ENFIELD STRIPPER CLIPS
(from AR, IME, Sep93, p71)
Editor:
A friend brought his recently purchased No. 4 Lee-Enfield and surplus
ammunition to the range and couldn't get all the stripper clips to feed
properly. Some worked and some jammed in the magazine, but he couldn't
figure out why. After examining his stripper-loaded bandoliers, I saw
the problem right away. The cartridge rims were all lined up
differently.
There is only one *correct* way to arrange the rims in the clips to get
them to feed reliably; three-up and two-down with the left, right, and
center rounds flat against the base of the stripper.
[Ben: ASCII rendition of rims in clip: ____----____----____ ]
Another tip I picked up from a British veteran is to smooth the *inside*
of the stripper clips to reduce friction. Many have a rough Parkerized
finish or have become dirty over time. You can smooth them by hand or
dump them in your case tumbler, if you have one.
With the cartridges arranged properly and with smooth strippers, the
rounds usually glide right into the magazine with just a simple downward
push of the thumb just in front of the cartridge rims.
One last thing, Enfields use "stripper" clips, not M1-style "en-bloc"
clips. The clip is supposed to be removed after the rounds are
"stripped" into the magazine, not go into it like the M1's.
Keith M. Alexander
Kensington, Maryland
========================================================================
SURPLUS "ENFIELD" WARNING
(from AR, DB Miscellany, Nov88, p65)
The following warning came to us from the United Kingdom Liason Office,
Armament Research, Development and Engineering Center, Picatenny
Arsenal, N.J.
"1. In July 1987 a UK MOD ban was placed on the firing of ball rounds
from .303 (cal.) No. 4 rifles in UK service as a result of two
explosions which occurred in the chamber area of the weapons and
resulted in burst barrels.
"2. UK MOD investigations found that the barrel explosions were as a
result of severe 'craze cracking' of the two barrels which were of
indeterminate age and life.
"3. UK MOD have initiated a study into why some barrels suffer craze
cracking and others do not, but results of this are not expected to be
complete for some time, and even then might not be conclusive.
"4. Because, in peace-time, .303 No. 4 rifles are only used in Cadet
units, it has been decided that it is not cost-effective to carry out
detailed examinations of all barrels, particularly as the cadets are
being issued with the new L98A1 Cadet GP Rifle. The firing ban will
therefore remain in force.
"5. Users of the No. 4 rifle worldwide, whether civilian or military,
are strongly advised to have the weapons closely examined for signs of
craze cracking and condemned accordingly. Thereafter, it is recommended
that any barrels which have passed such inspection should be examined
regularly for such signs and condemned if necessary."
Owners of the .303 No. 4 rifles should certainly heed the advice in the
UK safety notice to have them "closely examined" before firing them
again. The examination should be conducted, preferably, with the aid of
a good optical bore-scope, by an experienced gunsmith who is familiar
with the signs of erosion in gun barrels. If there are any signs of
roughness from erosion in the barrel immediately ahead of the chamber,
or any other visible defects in the barrel or chamber walls, then the
barrel should be regarded as suspect and the rifle *should not be fired*
until it has been properly fitted with a new barrel.
[BEN: The above notice was the first anyone had heard of this "erosion &
craze cracking" problem in Enfield barrels. Naturally, the shooting
public reacted in a calm, rational manner to this news... and
*panicked* as usual. Based on *two* isolated incidents, concerning the
heavily used (and abused) No. 4s in Cadet service in England, this
"ban" was issued, and rumors flew thick and fast in its wake. Theories
ranging from "bullets stick in pitted barrels" to "poor steel in
Enfield barrels" appeared, and hung around to haunt us all. The truth?
Simple enough. Cordite burns HOT. It eats barrel throats as bad as
hot, hi-velocity rounds like .220 Swift. And Cadet rifles used for
target practice get shot and shot and shot and shot until they flat
wear out, and then get shot some more. Why? Well, Britain in her
great(?) wisdom made a policy a few years back of NOT "surplussing" any
*new* Enfields to its Cadet schools and civilian shooters. Something to
do with their "gun control" fanaticism. Instead, they stored away,
destroyed, or sold overseas the No4s which remained in their inventory.
This left Cadet schools (and civilian shooters) with whatever they
already had - and they've "nursed" these same poor old rifles along for
close to 50 years now. Sad, huh?
The No. 4s in question probably hadn't been FTR'd (Factory Through
Repair) since the late 1940s, if then. The barrels in question were
*worn out*, yes (having had, in conservative estimate, about 250,000
rounds of MkVII ball ammo through each of them), and certainly overdue
for scrapping and replacement. And the "craze cracking" problem is
quite real, IN BARRELS WITH SEVERE THROAT EROSION. Be they Enfields or
any other make and model of rifle. Further shooting, especially with
more HOT-burning Cordite (service) ammo, is just asking for trouble. If
your Enfield is one of the $40 "bargain-basement" ones, with a worn-out
barrel - or if you shoot mostly surplus ammo - you need to have it
*frequently* checked for crazing and cracking in the throat area. On
the other hand, if your "shooting Enfield" is like mine (near-mint
barrel) and you shoot mostly reloads or commercial sporting
ammunition... well, it wouldn't hurt (for peace of mind) to have it
checked - once - but don't get in a panic over it or "retire" your .303
to the wall or closet, just because a couple of beat-to-shit UK Cadet
rifles blew their barrels. Remember, the No. 4 came out in 1939, was
issued in the millions throughout World War II, fought hard (and was
obviously shot a lot) in every theatre of the war, then retained for
service in assorted nations and carried and used through innumerable
smaller wars and battles, as well as seeing heavy use in hunting fields
worldwide - and yet, no "craze cracking blowup" reports until 1988.
Makes me shudder to speculate what sort of hideous overall condition
those "Cadet" rifles must have been in... Oy!]
========================================================================
.303 BUFF
(from GA, GunSmith column (Garry James), Jun84, p24)
Q: For some unknown reason, the favorite rifle in my rack is a British
.303 No. 1 MkIII. The piece shoots quite well with handloads, and is
a reliable performer while hunting. I would like to experiment with
some loads of higher velocity than I feel the old SMLE action can
safely handle. What action would you suggest to make up an economical
sporter? I'm also interested in duplicating the original black
powder load. What bullet and powder do you suggest?
A: Ah, a kindred spirit. I too am a fan of the .303, and within its
limitations find it an excellent round. Probably your best bet for a
beefier .303 action would be a stock military Pattern 14 rifle. These
Mauser-style guns were made for the British government during World
War I by Remington, Remington Eddystone, and Winchester. In fact they
formed the basis for the .30-06 U.S. Model 1917 "Enfield" rifle that
was also used in great numbers during the conflict. The P-14 is
already in .303, so it would save you the trouble of rebarrelling the
action. A good second choice would be a Siamese Mauser. As the bolt
is already set up for the rimmed 8mm Siamese Mauser round, conversion
would be relatively simple. The gun must be rebarrelled, of course.
It is impossible to duplicate the old Lee-Metford black powder round
without special equipment. In fact the original load was compressed
into a 75 1/2 grain pellet. The bullet weighed 215 grains. Perhaps a
compressed load of FFFg black powder might be interesting to play
with, however I'll bet the results will be somewhat disappointing -
not to mention rather sooty. Stick to smokeless. I can't see any
advantage in dirtying up your gun to get marginal performance.
========================================================================
ENFIELD CARBINE BAYONET
(from GA, GunSmith column (Garry James), Jun84, p20)
Q: I have an Enfield No. 5 MkI Jungle Carbine. It was made in December
of 1945 and is marked "No. 5 MkI ROF (F)". Where was it made? Where
can I find a bayonet for it?
A: Your Jungle Carbine was made at the Royal Ordnance Factory,
Fazakerly. Bayonets for No. 5s are really getting hard to find. I
would suggest that you write to John C. Denner Co., R.R. #1, North
Lancaster, Ontario, PO Box 122, Canada. John specializes in collector
bayonets and would probably be your best bet.
========================================================================
MKIII ENFIELD SCOPE MOUNT
(from GA, GunRoom column (Garry James), Apr87, pp22-23)
Q: I am trying to locate a scope mount for an old Lee Enfield I own. The
markings on the rifle are "MA LITHGOW S.M.L.E. III* 1941". It is in
.303 British calibre and appears to have a spot for scope mounting.
Any help you can give me in trying to locate this part would be
appreciated. Any information about this fine rifle would also be
appreciated.
Tom Morgan
Dallas, TX
A: Your Mark III* Lee Enfield was made in Australia at the Lithgow
factory in 1941. Though the British had pretty well gone over
completely to the No. 4 MkI SMLE in World War II, the Aussies were
still using the earlier-style Mark III. I agree with you, it's a fine
military arm - one of my favorites, in fact. You can get a scope
mount for the Mark III from S&K. Their #1B16R80 can be fitted to a
Mark III SMLE without tapping and drilling the receiver. Write
Brownell's, Inc., Route 2 Box 1, Montezuma, IA 50171 for ordering
instructions. My guess is that you are mistaking the cartridge
charger bar for a scope mounting area.
[BEN: I can attest to S&K's quality in design and construction of their
scope mounts. I have one of their mounts on a BSA/Shirley No4 MkI, and
while it puts the scope *very* high, it is solid and thoroughly
reliable. Current (1994) retail for this No4 mount is about $40.]
========================================================================
BOLT-ON SCOPE MOUNT
(from GA, excerpt of article by Art Blatt, Jan84, pp56-56, contd p70)
[BEN: The bulk of the article concerns 'scoping a Winchester M94
carbine, but B-Square's entire line, which includes Enfield mounts, is
mentioned and discussed. These are the sections presented here.]
Mounting telescope sights on certain firearms can be an intricate task,
especially for the amateur gunsmith. But, fortunately, virtually all of
today's centerfire rifles have receivers drilled and tapped at the
factory for installation of standard scope mounts. But what about those
obsolete or special purpose firearms that have no provision for adding a
scope? With these arms, it is often required to drill and tap screw
holes in barrels or receivers to accomodate a traditional scope mount.
Occasionally, it might be unavoidable to remove bits of metal here and
there to achieve a perfect fit. Most of us are not able to do work of
this nature, either because we lack the needed skills or we don't have
the proper equipment. Also, many gun owners are adamantly opposed to
altering a treasured firearm in any manner. Therefore, fitting a scope
mount without doing some machine work can create a genuine problem.
[stuff omitted]
B-Square was established about 25 years ago [as of 1984] by Dan Bechtel
for the manufacture of simplified tools and jigs for professional
gunsmiths. The fact that his business has flourished is testimony to his
success in this endeavor. The scope mount end of the business has grown
immensely in the past decade. Frustrated in attempts to find reliable
scope mounts for some uncommon rifles, Bechtel decided to make his own.
When these early prototypes proved to work extremely well, it was only
natural that he should offer them for sale to his customers. And so a
whole new business was born. Presently, scope mounts account for over
half of B-Square's sales volume.
All B-Square scope mounts are made from a particular high-strength
aluminum alloy that is capable of withstanding repeated recoil. The use
of lightweight alloy helps keep overall weight at an absolute minimum.
[BEN: And it keeps manufacturing costs down, too...]
Weight of most B-Square mounts falls in the two- to four-ounce range,
depending on the shape required to fit a particular firearm. Assault
rifle mounts weigh a bit more, usually between 7 to 9 1/4 ounces.
[stuff omitted]
A limited amount of windage and elevation is built into the B-Square
mount. Elevation is varied through use of an angled, elongated screw
hole as the attachment point for the rear scope ring. Windage can be
altered by using shims between rings and mount.
[stuff omitted]
...the Fort Worth, Texas company makes a number of mounts for firearms
that are exceedingly difficult to scope. Another long gun for example,
that presents scope mounting difficulties is the antiquated [BEN: Hey!
Watch it!] British SMLE .303 calibre service rifle. Over the years, huge
quantities of SMLEs have been distributed as surplus in this country and
a large percentage of these have been converted to sporters that could
benefit from the installation of a telescopic sight. Mounts have been
available in the past for the SMLE, but they have generally required
drilling and tapping the receiver for installation. B-Square's SMLE
mount fits precisely into place on all #4 and #5 rifles [BEN: ...which,
to be technical, are *not* SMLEs. Officially, "Smelly" was the
designation for the No.1 Mks only!] with no gunsmithing whatsoever.
Attachment procedure utilizes the ejector screw hole, with a large
clamping screw that also allows for ample windage adjustment to make
zeroing the scope a simple matter. The scope sits high in the SMLE mount
so that the regular iron sights may be used without mount interference.
[BEN: It's the old "That's not a bug, it's a feature!" syndrome: Most
unaltered military rifles require a high mount clearance for the bolt
and often for ejection, which may be more *up* than to the side. Low
scope mounting for Enfields usually requires a bit more modification
than can be had with a "bolt-on" mount.]
[stuff omitted]
...Should you have a particular scope mounting puzzle and cannot solve
it, write to B-Square Company, PO Box 11281, Ft. Worth, TX 76109. Don't
be too surprised if they come up with the right solution.
[BEN: Reports from the field, so far, indicate that B-Square mounts tend
to have problems holding a zero. Mostly, the complaints of this nature
I've heard have been from SKS owners. I don't know anyone who has used
the B-Square Enfield mount. Feedback would be appreciated!]
========================================================================
TEN ROUNDS IN TEN SECONDS
(from "Infantry At War: 1939-1945" by J.B. King & John Batchelor)
The British had introduced their first Lee-Enfield rifle in 1895, a long
rifle in the same style as its contemporaries, and ... in 1903 they
produced a short rifle, known as the "Short, Magazine, Lee-Enfield" and
always abbreviated to SMLE by the troops. The Lee bolt action was, in
theory, less efficient than the Mauser since the lugs which locked the
bolt were at the rear of the bolt and not at the head; this meant that
the body of the weapon had to be stronger and also that when the rifle
was fired the bolt was slightly compressed backwards. This, it was
averred, led to inaccuracy. It may have done, if the firer was trying to
take the pip out of the ace of hearts at a thousand yards, but for all
practical battlefield purposes it made no difference.
Where the Lee-Enfield scored was in the ease of operation of the bolt,
due to those same rear-end locking lugs. This came to the fore in a
technique developed and taught during the Second World War for house-to-
house fighting, in which the rifle was held at the hip with the thumb
and forefinger of the right hand grasping the bolt and the middle finger
inside the trigger guard; a quick flip of the wrist and the bolt was
operated, and as the hand came to rest the middle finger fell onto the
trigger and fired the rifle. It was possible to get off ten rounds in
ten seconds very easily by this method; it may not have been accurate,
but it kept the other man's head down until you could get close enough
to throw a grenade at him.
[BEN: This "book" - really just a glorified magazine - is rife with
technical inaccuracies and wild, speculative drivel throughout. I've
often wondered if there was any truth to the above "quick shooting
stunt". I've tried the technique, dryfiring with an empty rifle, and it
*definitely* takes more than a "quick flip of the wrist" to work the
bolt! Does anyone know whether the "trick" is anything more than a bit
of creative fiction?]
========================================================================
THE .303 BRITISH
(from "Peterson's Rifles & Cartridges For North American Big Game",
excerpt of 'Nostalgia in Brass' chapter by John Wooters)
The "other" .303 [besides .303 Savage] has a Cockney accent. It was 1888
when the British Empire officially adopted a pip-squeak rifle cartridge
firing a 215-grain bullet of a mere .311-inch diameter as its military
rifle cartridge. The new .303 certainly seemed a pip-squeak in
comparison with the .45-calibre Martini-Henry cartridge it replaced. It
was a response to the changing times, just as the 8mm Mauser in Germany,
8mm Lebel in France, and 7mm Mauser in Spain all were responses to
dizzying changes in tactics and weaponry - tanks, smokeless powder,
machine guns, and combat airplanes, to name just a few.
The .303 British was a black-powder cartridge at first and converted to
Cordite in 1892. Because the sun never set on the British Empire in
those glorious days, the .303 spread 'round the world almost overnight,
especially to east and southern Africa, India, Australia, and Canada. To
this day, it is popular in all those areas. It caught on in the United
States too, being added to the chamberings of the Winchester M1895 lever
action about 1897, with sporting ammo being manufactured here by then.
Oddly, the .303 rapidly gained favor in the game fields of Africa, even
for the largest and most dangerous game. One of the earliest of the
professional ivory hunters to use it was a gentleman named Sutherland,
and the tradition carried down at least to karamojo Bell. I've
personally witnessed native Botswana hunters smoking up Cape buffalo
herds with .303s, as lately as 1976, and I've had to kill buffs wounded
by them. In Kenya, Uganda, Zimbabwe, and elsewhere on the Dark
Continent, the .303 became one of the standard arms of the white farmer,
mostly for collecting meat and controlling pests. But you should *see*
some of the "varmints" in Africa!
In Canada, almost everyone who lived in the bush had a surplus Lee-
Enfield and a pocketful of .303 cartridges, and collected his winter
moose, caribou, elk, bear, or whatever, with it annually. They still do.
The Aussies had no native big game, but the ubiquitous .303 British
round was there, too, accounting for everything from man-eating
crocodiles to wombats. You can bet it still is.
In addition to all that, the rimmed .303 case has been wildcatted about
as extensively in Australia as the '06 has in the States, which is
saying something! I have not pinned down the original .303 military
ballistics, but a 215-grain bullet today is moved at 2180 fps. Only a
180-grain softnose is currently loaded commercially in this country, and
it's listed at 2460; a .308 the .303 will never quite be.
So how come those folks are going around plinking African elephants and
lions and grizzly bears and moose and stuff like that with it? Simple;
they'd never read the erudite evaluations of American gunwriters as to
what you can and can't do with this or that calibre, bullet weight, or
velocity level. They didn't happen to have their matched pair of Holland
& Holland "Royal" .470s handy, so they just used what they did have.
They just shot old Jumbo in the ear with a military .303 full-patch and
the great bugger fell down.
In lots of out-of-the-way places in the world, they still do that. Every
day. So much for the "pip-squeak" .303 British.
========================================================================
ENFIELD BOLT CREEP
(from GA, Gunsmith column (Garry James), Jul84, p26)
Q: I have a No. 1 Mark III* .303 Enfield produced by BSA in 1915.
Mechanically it is in very good condition with an excellent bore. One
thing, however, bothers me about the rifle. Each time I fire it, the
bolt moves up slightly. It has never come unbreeched but I am
concerned about this. What is the problem?
A: It is not unusual for Enfield bolts to move upward ever so slightly
upon firing. If your gun moves an inordinate amount, though, I would
take it to a gunsmith for a going over.
[BEN: I had never noticed this "phenonemon" until one day when I was
contemplating purchase of a Savage-made No.4 Mk1/2 in a gun store, and
(with permission) dry-fired the rifle to check the trigger pull. Sure
enough, the bolt moved - turned, actually - ever so slightly as the
firing pin fell. I commented on this to the shop owner (a fellow fan of
old military rifles) and he shrugged and said, "Oh, they all do that."
He proceeded to lead me down the rack of assorted Enfields - No.1
MkIIIs, No.4s, a No.5 - having me dry-fire each one and watch the bolt
handle "jump" upward slightly. It kind of bothered me, discovering this
peculiarity, but apparently it's nothing dangerous, just the bolt
"settling" under the jarring forward movement of the firing pin. Oh,
and I bought the Savage, by the way...]
========================================================================
NO.4 RIFLE LOOP
(from AR, Q&A, May91, p58)
Q: My Enfield No.4 rifle, and all others I have seen, has a loop or
staple protruding from the front of its trigger guard strap. Would
you explain its use?
A: As the illustration shows [BEN: Wish I could reproduce it here], the
loop is the attaching point for the leather thongs of a canvas
breech-cover that is now a seldom encountered accessory for the
rifle. -- A.T.
========================================================================
DOUBLE F MARKED SMLE
(from AR, Q&A, Nov81, p66)
Q: I have a British Short Magazine Lee-Enfield rifle (SMLE) which is
dated 1918 and was, according to its previous owner, issued in
England after the Dunkirk evacuation. The buttstock is a replacement,
and the original and still legible serial number has been struck
through with a new number stamped above it. With the new number, on
barrel and receiver ring, is a capital F superimposed on another
capital F and enclosed in a circle.
After considerable research, I can find no reference to the double-F-
in-a-circle marking. Can you tell me its significance?
A: When the Republic of Ireland organized its army in 1923, much of its
equipment including SMLE rifles, was obtained from England. When the
rifles were received, the Irish placed their own identification mark
on them and crossed out the original serial numbers, replacing them
with new numbers.
The mark of "FF" within a circle is the Republic of Ireland Army
property mark. "F.F" signifies "Fianna Fail". "Fiana" is the name of
an ancient military organization forming what then corresponded to
the standing army of the country; "Fail" means "destiny". One of the
ancient names of Ireland was "Innisfail" (The Isles of Destiny) and
"Fianna Fail" thus signifies the "Fianna (or army) of Destiny", or it
may be rendered as "The Fianna (or army) of Ireland".
The above information was obtained from the Republic of Ireland Army.
As the British Army lost much equipment at Dunkirk, rifles were
obtained anywhere they could be found, and they probably got a lot of
the older dated rifles from the Irish Army. -- C.H.Y., Jr.
========================================================================
AUSTRIAN ENFIELD
(from GA, Gunsmith column (Garry James), Jul84, p18)
Q: I have a Mark III Enfield with rather unusual markings. On the top of
the barrel, at the receiver, is stamped a small eagle surrounded by
the words, "OSTERR. GENDARMER". Do you have any idea what it is?
Victor E. Denzl, La Crescenta, CA
A: Well, as my readers probably know, I am something of an Enfield
enthusiast, but I must admit I have never seen a Mark III with the
markings that you describe. My guess would be that it would have been
a post-war issue (remember Vienna was divided into Allied occupied
zones) by the British to Austrian police. Other than than you've got
me stumped. Can any reader help to shed a bit more light on this
unusual critter?
[BEN: Anybody?]
========================================================================
SURPLUS SURPRISES
Previously unknown military surplus guns are showing up in the U.S.,
making the collectors drool and ponder.
(excerpt from GI94, "Surplus Surprises" article, by Charles Karwan)
* Cyprus Police No.5 Conversion
A good many of the surplus surprises have been well-known military
models converted into interesting previously unknown variations or even
new models. One of the more intriguing is a variation of the familiar
British No.5 "Jungle Carbine".
On the surface, these rifles look pretty much like a conventional No.5.
However, close inspection reveals that they are actually No.4 rifles
converted into the No.5 carbine configuration. On the left side of the
receiver they are pantograph-engraved NO 5 CONV-CYP/NIC.
The barrel was shortened to carbine length and fitted with a No.5 flash-
hider assembly. The forend and rear handguard were shortened to
approximate No.5 specifications, and the buttstock was fitted with a No.5
buttpad/sling loop assembly. In the process, the cut for the No.4 sling
swivel base has been plugged with a piece of wood. The net result is a
Jungle Carbine with a heavier barrel and without the lightening cuts in
the action.
[BEN: Or, I'll bet, the "wandering zero" problem...]
No one seems to know the exact story behind these carbines. Some
research has turned up pictures of Cyprus police carrying No.5 carbines.
It was a logical choice due to the paramilitary-type operations they
have had to conduct, and the fact that there has been dtrong British
Commonwealth influence there for decades, including the U.N. peace-
keeping force located there since 1964.
Considering this and the markings on these guns, I am relatively certain
that these No.5-type carbines were made by or for the Nicosia police on
Cyprus. They probably tried to acquire additional No.5 carbines some
time after gaining independence and found that none were available.
Since parts to do conversions of readily available No.4 rifles were
available, that route was taken. Regardless of the reason behind these
conversions, they are an interesting and previously unknown field
variation.
* Ishapore Arsenal 2A & 2A1 (No.1 MkIII action) 7.62 NATO rifles
Until they were offered on the U.S. market, the Indian 2A and 2A1 rifles
were almost completely unknown here. These extremely interesting rifles
were made from about 1962 until at least into 1968. They are little more
than a Short Magazine Lee-Enfield No.1 MkIII made at the Indian Ishapore
Arsenal in 7.62mm NATO, instead of .303 British. Except for the parts
changed to handle the shorter, higher-pressure and rimless NATO
cartridge, the two rifles are nearly identical. The changes are the
magazine, the extractor, the location of the ejector screw, the stripper
clip guide, sights, and the metallurgy and heat-treatment of the bolt
and receiver.
The original No.1 MkIII action is not strong enough to handle the 7.62mm
NATO cartridge with a sufficient margin of safety. To gain the necessary
strength, the Indians took the simple expedient of making the receiver
and bolt out of a stronger alloy and gave it a more sophisticated heat-
treatment.
[BEN: Considering Ishapore has been found to have made some No.1 MkIII
receivers out of *cast iron*, and "Nitro Proof" some guns at some times
using black powder proof loads, this "stronger alloy/sophisticated heat
treatment" is not especially encouraging. It's commendable that the
Indians were able to utilize the facilities they had available to
produce a NATO-compatible rifle... but I wouldn't shoot one of these
bombs on a bet, even with a loooong string... <shudder>]
It is a significant rifle in a variety of ways: It was the only rifle in
the Lee-Enfield family that was made originally in 7.62mm NATO, rather
than being a conversion; its 12-round magazine had the highest capacity
ever fielded on a standard military bolt-action rifle; it was the last
non-sniper military bolt-action rifle ever produced; and, finally, it
was the last of the noble Lee-Enfield line of military rifles to be
produced. For more information on this fascinating rifle, see my piece
on it in the 1993 GUNS ILLUSTRATED.
[BEN: I'll track that one down!]
Illustration #1: Showing the rifle in profile -
Though it looks like a World War II Ishapore No.1 MkIII Lee-Enfield,
the squared magazine gives it away as an Indian 2A1 in 7.62mm NATO.
Made from about 1962 until at least 1968, these are the last of the
military Lee-Enfield rifle variations to be produced.
Illustration #2: Showing a close-up of the action, right side -
Typical markings on the Indian 2A1. R.F.I. stands for Rifle Factory
Ishapore. Other than the magazine, the other giveaway as to its
identity is the squared nose cap. All specimens seen to date are in
pretty rough shape.
========================================================================